We got down to breakfast at around 7.30 a.m. in advance of what turned out to be a very busy morning. It was quite a bit cooler – a very pleasant 21⁰ at this point.
A very extensive buffet was presented to us, plus an à la carte menu. The service levels are exemplary here – it does seem as if the Thai people learn this skill as it is much more highly valued here than in the U.K.
Our half-day tour was due to start at 8.30, and we were ushered into another very upmarket minibus, armchair seats and everyfink. To my surprise, we were the only passengers – I was expecting a larger party.
Our guide was a 56 year old lady called Noi, which apparently is a name attributed to the youngest member of a family. She was excellent value, but at times a bit difficult to understand. I didn’t pick up the (male) driver’s name.
Chiang Mai is enormous. Total population, including suburbs, around 3 million people. Apparently it is bidding to take over the capital from Bangkok, which is stretching local resources to the limit (17 million people)!
Once we got out of Chiang Mai, we climbed a long and very sinuous road up to the top of a nearby mountain to see this very special temple. Its full name is Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, usually just referred to by the last two words. It is probably the most famous of the Chiang Mai temples.
Noi obviously knew her way around. She got us tickets for the funicular up to the temple itself, and she guided us around the huge complex.
Noi then walked us to the adjacent jade factory. I was expecting a sales approach and was not surprised. A quick tour of the factory, then a quick video extolling the virtues of the stuff. There are two types, apparently; nephrite, which is a mixture of calcium and magnesium silicates, and jadeite, a mixture of sodium and aluminium silicates. Jade is normally associated with a deep green colour (chromium), but can be other colours, e.g. pink (manganese) or brown (iron).
We were then, of course, subjected to sales pressure to buy some of the stuff. Jean succumbed this time, but I just stayed out of it.
Off we set again in the minibus, this time to the factory area. This is where much of the local stuff is manufactured, e.g. shirts, silk suits, etc. We were only interested in the umbrella/parasol enterprise, as we’d seen this broadcast by Michael Portillo on his “Great Railway Journeys” series.
The first part of this was really interesting. The skill and application of the workers, some of whom have been there for over 30 years, was something to behold. The upcoming video is rather long, but hopefully worth sticking with.
We then moved on to the, er, slightly more commercial side of the experience. However, once again, some really intricate work.
Then, to the warehouse – the sales treatment once again. Jean ended up with some umbrella; I just went and sat somewhere and let her get on with it. I just can’t help feeling that one is being suckered.
I’d had enough by then. Despite suggestions from Noi to visit more handicraft factories, we were firm in our request to go back to the hotel. It had been a tough morning for me and my knee. Having to take one’s shoes off before entering a temple, then putting them back on afterwards, a custom I respect, becomes very tedious when one’s knee mobility is restricted. The things we take for granted…..
Noi had, in the interim, had worked hard on our behalf, having been in direct contact with the hotel. As a result, we were now booked onto a river cruise that evening from the hotel pier, even though it wasn’t on the official schedule. Talk about pulling the strings…..
Jean had organised a lotus folding class (me neither), so she attended that after we’d both had a restorative beer.
Time for our river cruise, then. A pleasant enough experience, accompanied by bounteous alcohol and some superb canapés.
We’d had a table booked in the Thai restaurant at the hotel, but we had no room for it after those canapés. So we postponed it until the following evening.
I was knackered – it had been a bad day for the knee – but Jean wanted to look round the night market, fortunately only a short distance from the hotel.
It’s massive. I have never seen so much tat. It was certainly lively, but I’m afraid aimlessly wandering around places like this I find incredibly boring. I was glad to get back to the hotel for an early night.
We plan to visit the old city tomorrow. Could be picture heavy again. Let’s see.
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