Friday, 29th March – Machu Picchu

Apologies again for the late post, but it’s been all go recently.

As aforementioned, our room was too warm, so neither of us slept well. Nevertheless, we managed to get down to have a spot of breakfast.

One thing I haven’t mentioned is the rule that one is restricted to a total weight of 5 kg in one bag only to be carried on the train, said bag to contain all that was needed for an overnight stay. This proved extremely difficult to achieve, but we managed it, not without some loss of temper.

The Plan for today was to drive to the  train station at Urubamba, then catch the Hiram Bingham train to Aguas Calientes, followed by a bus up to Machu Picchu itself. Oscar was then to give us a tour of the citadel and we were to stay overnight at the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge.

It was an hour and a half’s drive to Urubamba, and we stopped on the way at a pretty lake for a leg stretch.

The smoke is burning trash
Urubamba from above

Arthur, in his usual efficient way, had got all the tickets ready, so when the time came to board, I was first on, managing to get a nicely positioned table. However, absolutely no check on the weight of our bags despite the entreaties to ensure we didn’t exceed the limit. Very frustrating after all that effort.

This train is pretty posh. Proper waiter service, tablecloths, à la cartish menu, wine glasses and everyfink. There was also an open bar and an observation platform at the back of the train.

We ventured to the latter, to find a proper party atmosphere. Live music, played to a remarkably high standard and a boisterous crowd. Great fun, but very noisy.

View down the carriage from the table
Pisco sour. Very nice, but quite strong…..
View from the rear of the train
One can sleep in these pods if one is mad enough
River Urubamba

Jean got chatting to a couple of young Australians, who were very entertaining, but proper conversation was impossible over the noise.

Lunch was professionally served and was very good. The staff, unlike us, had mastered the swaying of the carriages. Nothing, of course, to do with the pisco sour, champagne and wine consumed. Oh, no, no,no…..

A thoroughly enjoyable journey. We arrived in Aguas Calientes in very good spirits!

Aguas Calientes

Then the bus up to Machu Picchu itself. I got to ride shotgun on what was a lesson in bus driving. Great experience, and there is a protocol strictly observed between the drivers going up and down the climb. Lots of them.

Arrival at Machu Picchu

We were allowed to leave our bags in the lobby of the Sanctuary Lodge, which is right next to the entrance to Machu Picchu, but we were to check in formally later. We engaged our walking poles for what was to come.

On presenting passport and ticket at the gate, Oscar led us around this quite extraordinary site. There was a tough climb to start the journey, and the poles helped a bit, but they got in the way when taking pictures. They were more use going downhill.

We were both more breathless than might have been expected because of the thinner air. The ground was also very uneven – turning an ankle or worse was always on the cards.

Picture overload alert!

Urubamba River
A llama taking its ease
Guard house
There are the remains of an Inca settlement at the top of this pinnacle. It can be climbed, but it is extremely steep
Oscar in front of an upmarket house. The trapezoidal shape of the notch is typical Inca. Remarkable brickwork again.
Terracing for agricultural purposes was a key feature of Inca life
The King’s House, built to a higher standard for when the King was around

Oscar was an absolute mine of information, and I simply can’t remember it all. However, some hopefully salient facts:

Hiram Bingham, the archaeologist, discovered this site in 1911 by accident.

The Inca empire was enormous. It stretched from what is now Patagonia in the south to northern Colombia.

There is much evidence of unfinished tasks, evidence that the Incas fled the site as the Spanish conquistadors advanced in the 16th century.

There were probably only 700 or so people here as a maximum.

The Incas had three maxims: Don’t steal, don’t lie and don’t be lazy.

The Incas worshipped the sun. Their astronomy knowledge was remarkable. They knew exactly when the winter solstice was (the summer solstice in the northern hemisphere) and that was the start of the Inca year.

They had no written language – most of what we know comes from Spanish chroniclers – but they had a remarkably advanced knowledge of numbers and used a system of knotted strings to count.

There was lots more besides, but this is hopefully enough to be going on with.

The trip took around three hours and we were a) lucky with the weather and b) it wasn’t too crowded, maybe because it was Good Friday and other religious pursuits were more important. They only allow 3,000 people a day to visit, but they are planning to put this up to 6,500 later this year. Gawd help us…..

Around 90% of the revenue goes to central government, the remainder being for maintenance and salaries.

This was all pretty tiring, and we were glad to get to the lodge, even though it had been a tremendous experience. A box well and truly ticked.

After a (free) glass of fizz, we got checked in. The room was fine, but not quite up to the standard of the two Belmond properties we’d stayed in. However, everything was provided for – even the contents of the minibar were included.

Dinner was à la carte and of reasonable quality, but the wine flowed and the company was good. Most of the party are Americans, but there are quite a few Brits as well.

Thence to bed for a relatively early night after a very busy day.

I’ll report on Saturday’s doings as soon as possible.

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